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Brewery De Molen ceases operations – but still brews a non-alcoholic beer

  • Writer: raoulvanneer
    raoulvanneer
  • May 28
  • 2 min read

Updated: May 29

Let me get straight to the point: De Molen brewery is closing. It's scheduled to be completed by October 1, 2025. Royal Swinkels, owner of De Molen since 2019, is pulling the plug. The official reason: "The current setup in Bodegraven is no longer profitable." There's a good chance the beers will be brewed elsewhere within the group under the same name, but in any case, it's the end of an era.

And what's happening at this once-pioneering brewery at dusk? They're releasing a non-alcoholic beer: Marsh & Mallow . Surprising? Yes. Reason to take a moment and reflect on the history behind this iconic brewery? Certainly.



How it all began: a mill, a brewing book and a dream

De Molen (the Mill) was founded by Menno Olivier, a homebrewer with a "Great Homebrewing Book" in hand and a homemade system in the attic. What began as a hobby became serious as he built courses and tastings around it. In 2004, he founded his brewery in the De Arkduif grain mill in Bodegraven—a site dating back to 1697 that immediately gave the brewery its name.

Menno initially expected little more than a few visitors from the area: "the mayor and an elderly local man," as he put it. But when his beers appeared in the global top 10 of RateBeer.com (the predecessor of Untappd), everything changed. The phone line started ringing off the hook, exports went to 45 countries, and the brewery moved to a larger location. Fortunately, Menno received help from John Brus, who later founded his own brewery: Delftse Brouwers.


From independent to industrial branches

In 2019, De Molen was fully acquired by the Swinkels family (Bavaria). This meant that its independence and official status as a craft brewery disappeared. Nevertheless, De Molen remained an important place for many beer lovers. The Borefts beer festival organized by the mill is one of the most famous festivals in the world. And fortunately, the Brouwcafé on the Oude Rijn River remains open even after October.


Beer, mustard and farewell

At this brewery café, you can still enjoy their signature beers—including a growing non-alcoholic selection. Highly recommended: the beer mustard soup. Made with mustard they make from leftover beer (which they also use to make syrup and sambal). According to the bartender, he'll get into trouble with his customers if he ever takes it off the menu.

Menno himself has since left De Molen completely. He now lives in Spain, where he founded Menno Olivier Brewing and acquired a stake in La Pirata – a Spanish brewery that also produces remarkably good non-alcoholic beer. At a recent beer festival, he spoke with visible pain about having to watch what was happening to his life's work.


And what about the new non-alcoholic beer?

Marsh & Mallow. Alcohol-free. Sweet, smooth, slightly malty. Of course we tried it. Because even at the end of an era, a new non-alcoholic beer is cause for reflection—especially when it comes from a name like De Molen.


Would you like to try Marsh & Mallow for yourself? You can easily order it from us: www.ondernulpuntvijf.com .


Note: This blog is based (in part) on the article Raoul wrote in the book Craft Beer . It's still available for purchase from us.

 
 
 

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